The truth about orphanage tourism

It's the Western desire "to help abandoned children" that is fostering a "grotesque market that capitalises on their concerns".

It's the Western desire "to help abandoned children" that is fostering a "grotesque market that capitalises on their concerns". Photo: AFP

Having travelled through much of south-east Asia my husband and I are serious about showing our sons that life abroad isn't all waterslides and funfairs.

So when the opportunity arose to visit an orphanage in Vietnam we didn't think too hard about it. A day there would provide a starkly different reality from the one we were enjoying at our resort. We knew that being on-site would be another thing entirely, but contributing something of value was meant to take us out of our comfort zone, right?

What I didn't account for was coming face-to-face with the guarded smiles of the children, or fellow tourists clutching their own oversized presents.

Within minutes I had a young boy, maybe aged two, in my arms, and we were all directed to a room with iron cots and a dearth of wall fans. The room housed 10 or 12 disabled children. In my six-year-old's grip I could feel the pull of my own resistance. We were shepherded towards the courtyard where we waited for the birthday celebrations to begin. With several of the younger children clinging steadfastly to our necks it wasn't just the intense humidity that had us in its hold.

Several hours later my husband and I couldn't shake off our growing unease. Had we become so full of our own good intentions that we'd failed to heed something far more profound? Could it be that the only life lesson here was ours?

Google gave us our answer. In 2011, Britain's Daily Mail reported that it was the Western desire ''to help abandoned children'' that was fostering a ''grotesque market that capitalises on their concerns". With the number of orphanages matching the rising levels of tourism it's no surprise that ''voluntourism'', and its inauspicious offshoot ''orphanage tourism'', are growing at a rate of knots.

Cambodia, whose orphanage numbers have nearly doubled in five years, is but one example of this. As Fairfax Media reported in April, "72 per cent of about 10,000 children in Cambodia's estimated 600 orphanages have a parent, though most are portrayed as orphans''. Similarly, there had been disturbing reports by a British non-profit organisation regarding the orphanage we'd visited. The foundation, which had worked on-site from 2002 until 2010, wrote that conditions there had deteriorated rapidly since it ended its involvement.

Last year the Hoi An Orphanage - Quang Nam province's largest government-run orphanage, and home to more than 90 orphaned or abandoned children - became the beneficiary of a partnership with our resort. The program's aim, the resort's general manager told me, was to create a sustainable and progressive environment by offering "man hours and manpower, equipment and supplies, care and compassion through awareness". 

What I'd heard of his commitment and what we saw of the level of care at the orphanage seemed to me to be genuine. But the problem lay not so much in the institution as with our accidental involvement. A number of studies by non-profit organisations have found that even in the legitimate and well-run orphanages, short-term volunteer initiatives, which encourage visitors to bond with the children, leave behind a trail of devastation.

Regardless of our best intentions we'd made a poor decision based on nothing more concrete than that mercurial fuzzy feeling one gets from "doing good". While we cuddled and played with the children and handed out presents, the only thing truly being conciliated was our conscience. We weren't so much a distraction as a nuisance - not the kind of message I was hoping to impart to my children.

I hadn't stepped out of my comfort zone; just hopelessly out of my depth. I can only hope that the books and pencils we left behind offer more lasting value.

6 comments

  • Wow, lets go and see the poor children. Ewww you didn't really....

    Commenter
    Melissa
    Date and time
    July 25, 2013, 11:07AM
    • Sorry, but what made you think those children were a tourist attraction? How could you not consider they might have feelings about people coming into their home?

      I don't understand orphanage tourism at all.

      Commenter
      SJ
      Location
      cyberspace
      Date and time
      July 25, 2013, 3:40PM
      • I hope this is a lesson to all readers of this newspaper that orphanage tourism is wrong, wrong, wrong and should NEVER be done. Imagine having some Chinese tourists come and gawk at our indigenous communities and take photos and give candy.

        I refer you to substantial UNICEF literature on the subject and this important blogs:

        http://goodintents.org/orphanages/does-funding-orphanages-create-orphans

        As long as there is incentive for people to put children into care, they will. Incentives should be given for children to stay at home with their families. Orphanages are not the solution to poverty. I wish every foreigner who wanted to start an NGO in Southeast Asia or Nepal would just go back to lying on the beach where they belong. Child protection services is not for tourists. Like that bloody Bondi girl whose daddy nominated her for Young Australian of the Year, thought she was setting up an orphanage in Cambodia, ended up trafficking children whose parents signed them over to her.

        There are four types of care in Cambodia, state-run, monastic (Buddhist), private Khmer and private foreigner. Apart from the monastic upbringing, all are dangerous. We as foreigners can put a stop to the last two by not visiting them, not donating to them and not making them attractive or attempting to make them better. This will just result in more kids abandoned, no matter how bad the existing ones are, or how many apparent street kids there are.

        Commenter
        Actually
        Date and time
        July 25, 2013, 4:25PM
        • I think it is really admirable that you were able to recognise and admit the broader impact (or lack of) of your visit. Perhaps another way you could teach your children about other people in the world would be to sponsor a child from the country you visit. They would be able to write letters to each other, learning about another culture through their correspondence, while the long term nature of child sponsorship would teach them about the importance of contributing to those in need in a thoughtful, sustained way.

          Commenter
          YH
          Date and time
          July 25, 2013, 9:03PM
          • It shouldn't take a Google search to know that this is wrong. Children are not exhibits in a petting zoo. Imagine the harm being done to them by a constant stream of people playing and bonding with the children, only to abandon them at the end of the day.

            Great that you left pencils and books, but what type of education are these children getting when their 'job' is entertaining the tourists all day.

            Exploitation at its worst.

            Commenter
            Traveller
            Date and time
            July 25, 2013, 10:41PM
            • My son recently spent 3 weeks of his gap year at a Cambodian orphanage. Apart from teaching English and riding to bring children into the school each morning that lived kms away, he assisted in the rebuilding of some of the families very simple homes, so that the children DON'T have to live at the orphanage. How bad can that be.
              I think Jen would have been better to take a 1/2 day city tour, or lay around the pool for the day, than make negative comments after spending just a few hours trying to make herself feel good. And what did she ever expect a 6 year old to get out of it?

              Commenter
              Rae
              Date and time
              July 25, 2013, 10:55PM
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