Runway review: Akira
Akira at Fashion week
A model showcases designs by Akira on the catwalk. Photo: Getty Images
Is it wrong to be a fashion writer who hates fashion week? After five days of queuing in the chill (no frontsies, no backsies), armed with only San Pellegrino for sustenance (#firstworldproblems), I’ve come to my fifth and final show of the week. And what a show it was.
After a five-year AFW hiatus, Akira Isogawa delivered his exquisite spring-summer collection via this season’s most contagious trend, an installation.
Leading his models onto white plinths, he opened with a breathtaking bridal collection, white and diaphanous with intricate beading and silk appliqué on tulle recalling maple leaves and Hokusai clouds.
The other side of the room was a cacophony of vivid hues and textures, with birds, orchids and sakura transmuted in vibrant red, pink, marigold, turquoise and mikado yellow prints. Origami-like folds and obi sashes paid homage to traditional kimonos, while saucer-shaped hats, feathered headdresses, colour-happy platforms and scarfs that looked like dancing coral added that extra element of drama.
Despite the scrum of photographers, the atmosphere was strangely serene, with the sounds of birdcalls, cicadas and Vivaldi’s ‘Spring’ providing a welcome change to this week’s unofficial soundtrack, Lana Del Rey. A refreshing note to end on methinks.